It started with a knife set and a backpack full of dreams. Having worked in and been inspired by the world’s many cuisines, James Thompson now wants to put Boden on the food map. Meet the Michelin-starred chef who hates being called just that.
A muffled, repeated thumping sound is heard from the open kitchen. A chef is slicing through a fiery red tomato, moving the knife back and forth at an impressive speed. It’s as if all resistance ceases when the steel meets the skin. The blade slides through the core, leaving a finished slice ready to be used for the day’s lunch meals. A bright towel hangs nonchalantly over his left shoulder. James looks up, greets politely, then sets down the knife and cloth in one smooth motion.
He is head chef at the DG11 gastropub, which has quickly become a central part of Boden’s evening and nightlife scene. The interior of the venue can be described as a mix of industrial rawness and urban warmth. This mix has become one of the company’s hallmarks, not least through the creative dishes. James looks around the room and smiles before describing the feeling:
– For me, it’s like coming home to North London. It’s a rustic pub, but very different from a normal pub. I love it,” he says.
ROCK “N” ROLL IN THE KITCHEN
Growing up in the borough of Tottenham, the pub environment was familiar, as his father ran a simple pub. It was also there that his interest in the culinary profession arose.
– Whenever I could, I would sneak down to the kitchen and watch the chefs work. I felt early on that this was what I wanted to do.
His passion for cooking started even earlier, thanks to his grandparents. They grew their own crops and cooked from scratch. When James’ parents worked in the pub, he spent a lot of time with his grandmother in the kitchen, watching with fascination as she turned ingredients into tasty meals. At the same time, his grandfather told him about the vegetables and the interplay of nature. James’s future was clear to him and his goals were high.
– Michelin stars are rock “n” roll in the culinary world. That’s where I wanted to go. I worked in a couple of Michelin-starred restaurants in London, but Paris was the big goal.
With a great deal of hope and confidence, he packed his knife set and set off.
– It was crazy really. I had no money, barely a resume, and I was knocking on the door of some very prestigious restaurants. Hi, I’m James and I want to work here.
Many raised their eyebrows, not only at his youthful audacity but also at his origins. What did an Englishman know about cooking? But one of the star chefs gave him a chance, and that was the start of a food journey that would take him around the world.
– It is the best experience of my life. Everything was so well organized. Everything had its place and purpose. I was able to learn from incredibly skilled chefs and understand what it takes to make a kitchen work.
FUSION RISES
In Paris, James was advised to travel and work in different restaurants to learn from other cultures and chefs. This took him to Italy, Greece, Spain, Australia and finally Japan.
– My interest in fusion was sparked when I was working in Sydney. A colleague encouraged me to go to Japan, but I was hesitant because I didn’t know a word of Japanese. He reassured me, saying: “Food is an international language.”
In Osaka, he worked in small restaurants and absorbed how they worked. He then took this experience into his own kitchen and tried to create something unique. It is this style that he now puts on DG11’s menus. James aims to create a balance between experimental and traditional dining experiences, always with a distinct local flavor.
– For us, fusion means using quality local produce from the local area, taking inspiration from other food cultures and having fun at the same time. We change the menu every six weeks and are not afraid to try new things.
INSECTS ON THE MENU
In order to use local produce all year round, they use different conservation methods, both modern and traditional. James often returns to the knowledge he gained from his grandparents, and their views on sustainability have influenced his own thinking as a chef.
– Food should be made from scratch, with good ingredients. It can be done up here too, even if the harvest seasons are short. For me, it is important that we show that it is possible.
One example of his innovative approach is that for the past year it has been possible to order insects on the menu.
– If I want people to eat insects, I really need to know why and how, so that it’s a good experience. Of course some people are skeptical, but when I see the smile on their faces and how surprised they are, it’s a great feeling.
James explains that it is also a way to challenge himself, his guests and other restaurants.
– We need to find more sustainable raw materials and if we can do that, it can encourage others who do not want to be left behind.
WARMEST PEOPLE IN THE COLD
James has lived in Boden for ten years, and in that time he has seen a change. He feels that a more cosmopolitan lifestyle is starting to take root in the city, a development he finds positive.
– Boden has a soul that I don’t want to lose, but I see it flourishing with influences from the world. It’s a balance that I want to try to contribute to.
When James moved here with his family at the time, he immediately fell in love with the people.
– I’ve lived in many cities, but the people here are some of the warmest and friendliest I’ve met. It may seem like the Bodens are reserved, but hang out with them for a day in the cold, go skiing or picnicking, and you’ll experience a togetherness that is 100 percent genuine.
He wants the restaurant to reflect the same warmth and community that he himself has experienced in Boden. But in a peculiar way. At the bar there is a set of something that might not be associated with a pub at first glance. Board games. The idea is that guests can borrow and socialize, further reinforcing the image of DG11 as a meeting place.
– You can come here in the oldest jeans you have and still have a great experience. We want to serve food that doesn’t cost the earth and create a place where people enjoy socializing whether you’re having a three-course dinner or not.
BODEN MICHELIN STAR
Four children and several stamped passports later, James is still driven by his big dreams.
– I’ve always aimed for the stars and now I’m going to get my own.
Despite having worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants, he hates being called a Michelin chef.
– If you’re a chef or sous chef, that’s your star. I don’t want to take credit for the hard work of others. I’m still waiting for my own.
He concludes by emphasizing how much he believes in what he and DG11 are doing.
– We are on the right track by trying new things and creating experiences that make people say “wow”. That’s what a Michelin star is all about, and we’re going to make it happen. Not just for me, but also for Boden. That would be so cool.
TEXT: ANDRÉ SAMUELSSON
